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Back Article published Mar 18, 2008
Waterbury pub serves up Vermont fare with a Southern accent

By Sylvia Fagin Correspondent

A recent Saturday evening found families, couples, and groups of skiers enjoying themselves at the Cider House BBQ and Pub in Waterbury, which celebrates its one-year anniversary this week.

It's a popular place, and some waiting for a table enjoyed the live music from a couch facing the fireplace. Others sampled hard ciders and cocktails at the bar, or played pool and shuffleboard in the game room.

The wide wooden floors, earthy green walls, and deep red tablecloths create an atmosphere akin to a lavishly renovated barn. It's comfortable and cozy, and as amazing as it is, it's not the décor that attracts crowds of locals and visitors.

It's the meat.

The meat is flavorful, plentiful and local – and augmented by a dozen southern side dishes and topped off by several truly tantalizing homemade desserts.

Believe it or not, this southern-style hospitality is served up by two men who used to call New York home. Jimmy Dotson and Tom Sullivan traded their jobs in Manhattan and weekend home in East Corinth for their full-time digs in Waterbury. Upon arrival, their first order of business was to find a chef.

Before the kitchen was even outfitted they hired Tara Tracy, a NECI grad who hitchhiked to the interview when her car broke down en route. "I thought that was impressive," said Dotson, "but it was her ideas that got her the job. She had the same vision for the direction of the restaurant that we did."

Together, they created the menu that's got mouths watering.

Appetizers include spicy pork taquitos, corn tortillas filled with pork and cheese, rolled, fried crisp, and served with sour cream and salsa ($7.95). The fritter trio includes mushroom and okra fritters and hush puppies, served with a roasted garlic mayonnaise ($6.95).

Of course there's barbeque — beef brisket, pulled pork, and pulled chicken — smoked in-house and served with a choice of mild, spicy, or sweet and tangy bourbon sauce ($13.95). Pork ribs, boneless or bone-in St. Louis style, are offered in two sizes ($12.95 small, $14.95 large).

Vegetarians aren't left out — Tracy cooks up black bean risotto ($12.95), a very flavorful black bean burger topped with smoked onions, avocado, and chipotle mayo ($9.95), and vegetarian sloppy joes ($9.95).

Everything is served with two side dishes, which include creamy house-made coleslaw, buttery mashed potatoes, sweet potato fries, and slow-cooked maple beans with bacon. In true southern fashion, three varieties of grits are offered — plain, cheese, or "grits of the day," flavored with savory treats like sautéed mushrooms.

Kids can enjoy favorite side dishes like the macaroni and local cheese, or choose from the "little saplings" menu, which features kid-friendly portions of barbeque, fried shrimp, grilled cheese, corn dogs, and burgers.

Want to linger a bit in the warmth of the fire and the melody of the live, acoustic music? The almond poppy seed cake is moist and sweet, key lime pie and beignets are classics, and the coffee hails from another Waterbury producer, Green Mountain Coffee.

Waterbury has been good to Dotson and Sullivan.

"This is a great place to open a restaurant, people are so supportive," Dotson said. "When we started, we introduced ourselves all over town, and people gave us great advice."

They're committed to supporting Vermont food producers; the menu boasts an impressive list of local foods, including beef from North Hollow Farm in Rochester and pork and chicken from Winding Brook Farm in Morrisville.

Cold Hollow apple cider is served hot, spiced, and in signature cocktails. The hard ciders are almost exclusively local as well: MacJack from the Grandview Winery in East Calais, and Flag Hill cider from Vershire, are among the offerings.

The menu changes seasonally, with the next change due in April — the same time the outdoor patio, with views of the Winooski River, opens. The Cider House BBQ and Pub, 1.7 miles west of Waterbury on Route 2, is a great spot for a drink, appetizer, or dinner. Definitely recommended.

Sylvia Fagin writes about local foods and food producers. Contact her at sylviafagin@yahoo.com.